Sites Around Soucy
The area around Soucy is rich in history and things to see. We have barely scratched the surface. The churches date back to the 11th century. There are many remains of medieval chateaux and dungeons. The area was also in the center of WWI fighting.
Below are just a few highlights.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Pierrefonds is just a 15 minute drive (45 minutes by bike) from Soucy, and is said to be one of the most visited monuments in France. It was built in the 14th century for Louis D'Orléans, brother of King Charles VI, and was demolished two-hundred years later by Louis XIII. Napoleon III bought the ruined castle in 1813 for under 3,000 Francs, and entrusted Viollet-le-Duc with its restoration, who rebuilt it along the lines of a medieval fortress. The surrounding forest and a small lake add to the area's charms. In WWI the area served as one of 3 hospitals for wounded French soldiers. The castle was also the inspiration for the castle at Disneyland.
Outside Pierrefonds
Water spout (on the left) inside the courtyard of Pierrefond
Laon: a city, high on a hill and in the north-east corner of France. The hilly district of Laon has always had some strategic importance. In the time of Caesar there was a Gallic village where the inhabitants had to meet the onset of the confederated Belgae. Whatever may have been the precise locality of that battlefield, Laon was fortified by the Romans, and successively checked the invasions of the Franks, Burgndians, Huns, and others. It contains many medieval buildings. The most important of these is the cathedral Notre-Dame de Laon, dating mostly from the 12th and 13th centuries. The picture above is of the chapel of the Templars belonging to the 12th century. The area was occupied by the Germans for most of WWI.
Along the Chemin des Dames (Ladies' Road) - A road some thirty kilometres long and runs along a ridge between the valleys of the rivers Aisne and Ailette. It acquired the name in the 18th century, as it was the route taken by the two daughters of Louis XV, who were known as Ladies of France. At the time it was scarcely a carriage road but it was the most direct route between Paris and the château of the former mistress of Louis XV and former lady in waiting to one of the daughters, and whom the daughters visited frequently. To make the way easier, the count had the road surfaced and it gained its new name.
During WWI, the Chemin Des Dames was the scene of several bloody battles between 1914 and 1918. It was held predominantly by the German army from November 1914. The most noted battle took place over 9 days in April 1917. The French, advocating the use of overwhelming force, attacked the German line along a front on the Chemin's ridge. The German defenders had found shelter in caves below the ridge from which they were able to dominate the ground over which the attack was made. On the first day, the French army, with support by battalions of Senegalese soldiers, lost over 40,000 men. During the entire 9 day battle, French forces lost approximately 97,000 men. The overwhelming loss of lives with insignificant strategic gain was a disaster for Nivelle, the French general, and many mutinies followed. Petain (of later Vichy fame), soon replaced Nivelle.
One of our favorite sites was Coucy le Chateau, a medieval city high on a hill. It was built in the 13th century and renovated byViolett leDuc in the 19th. In 1917, the German army dynamited the keep or donjon and the four towers using 28 tons of explosives. During its heyday it was famous for the size of its central tower (the largest in Europe, 35 meters wide and 55 meters tall). It was the pride of its lords, who adopted the staunchly independent rhyme: "Roi ne suis, ne Prince ne Duc ne Comte aussi; Je suis le sire de Coucy" ("I am not a King, nor Prince nor Duke nor Count; I am the Lord of Coucy"). 
View looking out over the valley from Coucy le Chateau
Church and street in Ferte Millon. Note the name of the street (you can click the picture to enlarge). Perhaps not the most desirable place to live.
Ferte Millon: The castle would have been the largest in France of its time (XVth century), but it was never completed and was later dismantled. Also in the city is a pretty bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel before he became famous for that lovely tower in Paris. 
Septmonts: Sunday flea market / Brocante at the base of the remains of the castle Septmonts, of which the principal remains are of the 14th century keep. The castle was the country seat of the Bishop of Soissons and was first built in stone a little before 1242. It is thought to have been inspired by the works of Charles V of France, combining both military and residential functions. 
Septmonts remainsSaturday, November 8, 2008
More About Our Bike Rides
Dressing warm for November rides
Fall colors
Sugar beet harvest
Dressing warm for November ridesSeveral weeks ago we thought that our bike riding days on this trip were pretty much finished. I had mentally set 50 degrees as the reasonable cutoff point and it was getting colder than that and had started raining every few days. But when we got back from Paris this week, I think we both decided that we wanted to ride some more, so we started pushing the weather limits, finding ways to dress warmer and limiting the total time we were out. I know that most of you think we are completely nutso about riding and, frankly, I wonder sometimes myself. However, the riding in this area is so spectacular we keep wanting to do more.
Over the time we’ve been here, the countryside has been changing with the fall colors. The colors have been so beautiful and even now, when the leaves are off many of the trees, there are still picturesque scenes in every direction. We often ride through open farm fields—corn, potatoes, and the prevailing crop right now, sugar beets. For the last three weeks they have been harvesting them like mad and when they are pulled out of the ground, they clump them by the side of the field to be picked up weeks and even months later. I was puzzled at first, wondering if there was a risk they would start rotting, but I went on line and learned that the large clump piles were a standard practice. Turns out the beets did not have to be picked up before the wet and rainy season. The farmers deliver the beets to the processor over time to allow the processor to keep up with the huge harvest. More recently, there are a large number of fields planted in winter wheat and the fields are just starting to shoot up. So everywhere you turn, you will see these large expanses of light green with the wheat from four to six inches high.
I mentioned in an earlier blog that no matter what direction we headed in, the ride turned out to be beautiful and scenic. We’ve probably been on close to 30 rides now and not one has been disappointing. Today was a typical example. Because the weather was less than ideal—low forties, winds of 10 to 12 miles an hour, and mixed sun and clouds, we picked a loop that started in Soucy and went out about ten miles in one direction, building on a ride we had done recently, but adding another 10 mile loop, so that the total was about 27 miles. We wound through colorful forest, picturesque small villages, and rolling hills. With the wind up, we generally tried to stay away from the open fields, but there was a 45 minute section of open farm land and strong wind. Nevertheless, we both thoroughly enjoyed the ride, our picnic lunch, and the time together. While riding today, I was reminded of why I wanted the time to do things like this while I was still young enough to really enjoy them. All in all, our riding here has been better than we ever imagined it would be and we started with pretty high expectations from our previous trips here. But having this much time to settle in and explore all the surrounding area has made it really special. Ken
Over the time we’ve been here, the countryside has been changing with the fall colors. The colors have been so beautiful and even now, when the leaves are off many of the trees, there are still picturesque scenes in every direction. We often ride through open farm fields—corn, potatoes, and the prevailing crop right now, sugar beets. For the last three weeks they have been harvesting them like mad and when they are pulled out of the ground, they clump them by the side of the field to be picked up weeks and even months later. I was puzzled at first, wondering if there was a risk they would start rotting, but I went on line and learned that the large clump piles were a standard practice. Turns out the beets did not have to be picked up before the wet and rainy season. The farmers deliver the beets to the processor over time to allow the processor to keep up with the huge harvest. More recently, there are a large number of fields planted in winter wheat and the fields are just starting to shoot up. So everywhere you turn, you will see these large expanses of light green with the wheat from four to six inches high.
I mentioned in an earlier blog that no matter what direction we headed in, the ride turned out to be beautiful and scenic. We’ve probably been on close to 30 rides now and not one has been disappointing. Today was a typical example. Because the weather was less than ideal—low forties, winds of 10 to 12 miles an hour, and mixed sun and clouds, we picked a loop that started in Soucy and went out about ten miles in one direction, building on a ride we had done recently, but adding another 10 mile loop, so that the total was about 27 miles. We wound through colorful forest, picturesque small villages, and rolling hills. With the wind up, we generally tried to stay away from the open fields, but there was a 45 minute section of open farm land and strong wind. Nevertheless, we both thoroughly enjoyed the ride, our picnic lunch, and the time together. While riding today, I was reminded of why I wanted the time to do things like this while I was still young enough to really enjoy them. All in all, our riding here has been better than we ever imagined it would be and we started with pretty high expectations from our previous trips here. But having this much time to settle in and explore all the surrounding area has made it really special. Ken
The Election
The election was a big event here. The day before, we were at lunch in Paris sitting next to a French woman and her adult granddaughter. We talked abut Obama and she insisted on sharing her bottle of champagne with us and toasting to the "Feast of America."
We watched the results at a party in Paris for about 1000 Americans and Parisians. It was held in the Aquarium in the Trocadero, from 10:30 pm to 6 am. (Since the party did not start until 10:30, we spent the evening at the movies - MamaMia on the Champs Elysee, a fun distraction).
Food, drinks, and breakfast were served and everyone was very cheerful. We saw the results on a bigscreen TV showing CNN (another room, less crowded, was broadcasting Fox News). At 5 am when CNN called it, everyone jumped to their feet, there were great cheers and shouts of joy, hugs, and tears. I left feeling proud of being an American, perhaps for the first time that I was actually aware of it. (Since I am not running for office, I guess I can say that.)
The election was a big event here. The day before, we were at lunch in Paris sitting next to a French woman and her adult granddaughter. We talked abut Obama and she insisted on sharing her bottle of champagne with us and toasting to the "Feast of America."We watched the results at a party in Paris for about 1000 Americans and Parisians. It was held in the Aquarium in the Trocadero, from 10:30 pm to 6 am. (Since the party did not start until 10:30, we spent the evening at the movies - MamaMia on the Champs Elysee, a fun distraction).
Food, drinks, and breakfast were served and everyone was very cheerful. We saw the results on a bigscreen TV showing CNN (another room, less crowded, was broadcasting Fox News). At 5 am when CNN called it, everyone jumped to their feet, there were great cheers and shouts of joy, hugs, and tears. I left feeling proud of being an American, perhaps for the first time that I was actually aware of it. (Since I am not running for office, I guess I can say that.)
Daily Life
When we are at Soucy (and not Paris), we usually get up around 8:00 or so, as it is fairly dark up until then. Ken makes a pot of coffee, while I heat milk and chocolate so we can start our day with mochas.
Over breakfast, since we do not get a newspaper, we often check the NY Times headlines and editorials by blackberry, one of us reading interesting articles out loud.
Around 9:45 each morning (except Monday), the Bread Lady arrives in her van and beeps her horn. We come out to the gate to pick up our daily baguette. On request, we also get a pain au chocolate. The baguette is about $1, and it is enough for lunch and dinner, and sometimes more. The Bread Lady is one of our favorite parts of the day.
The rest of the morning is usually spent on minor chores, work related time on the computer, personal emails, etc. On Thursdays we always go into the Farmer’s Market in Villers-Cotteret to do our weekly shopping. For the first 2 months, we did a bike ride in the late morning or early afternoon, usually with a picnic lunch. Our rides are less regular as the weather changes, but we are still getting them in now and then.
If the weather does not allow a bike ride, we might go for a drive to any of the neighboring historic towns and sites, of which there are many. We also swim, and have been in many interesting pools. Swiming all year round seems to be very popular, at all levels of seriousness (in some pools people seem to just stand at one end of the pool and chat). So far we have swam in Switzerland, Munich (a beautiful and historic Belle Epoque pool), Paris (a pool built for the 1922 Olympics, very nice and modern), Villers-Cotterets, Couloisy, and Compiegne.
Except for when we are in Paris, we almost always eat dinner at home. For entertainment, we have been to several local concerts given in the small churches of neighboring towns. Most (not all) have been excellent.
When we are at Soucy (and not Paris), we usually get up around 8:00 or so, as it is fairly dark up until then. Ken makes a pot of coffee, while I heat milk and chocolate so we can start our day with mochas.
Over breakfast, since we do not get a newspaper, we often check the NY Times headlines and editorials by blackberry, one of us reading interesting articles out loud.
Around 9:45 each morning (except Monday), the Bread Lady arrives in her van and beeps her horn. We come out to the gate to pick up our daily baguette. On request, we also get a pain au chocolate. The baguette is about $1, and it is enough for lunch and dinner, and sometimes more. The Bread Lady is one of our favorite parts of the day.
The rest of the morning is usually spent on minor chores, work related time on the computer, personal emails, etc. On Thursdays we always go into the Farmer’s Market in Villers-Cotteret to do our weekly shopping. For the first 2 months, we did a bike ride in the late morning or early afternoon, usually with a picnic lunch. Our rides are less regular as the weather changes, but we are still getting them in now and then.
If the weather does not allow a bike ride, we might go for a drive to any of the neighboring historic towns and sites, of which there are many. We also swim, and have been in many interesting pools. Swiming all year round seems to be very popular, at all levels of seriousness (in some pools people seem to just stand at one end of the pool and chat). So far we have swam in Switzerland, Munich (a beautiful and historic Belle Epoque pool), Paris (a pool built for the 1922 Olympics, very nice and modern), Villers-Cotterets, Couloisy, and Compiegne.
Except for when we are in Paris, we almost always eat dinner at home. For entertainment, we have been to several local concerts given in the small churches of neighboring towns. Most (not all) have been excellent.
A bouquet of dahlias from Monique's garden. Monique is our housekeeper and is very nice to us. She leaves lovely bouquets to greet us after we have been gone, and irons everything. She says that is how she was taught by her grandmother. She speaks only French, not a word of English, but we communicate pretty well.
The church in Soucy is just a block or so down the road from us. It dates back to the 14th [?]century and was recently restored. The Mayor held a party in the church for locals to explain the restoration work, display paintings by Rene Demeurisse (well-known local painter who lived in Milton's house before his death), and to serve champagne and cakes. 
Demeurisse painting
Sunday, October 26, 2008
PARIS TRIPS
We go into Paris once a week. Sometimes we go for the day, but usually we spend one night. We alternate between going in on the train and driving. The cost of the train is about the same as gas and parking for 2 days. The train is more relaxing, but it means I can’t bring as much stuff since I have to haul it on both the train and the metro, and then walk to the hotel.
We have been staying at a nice but modest small hotel in the 7th, a short walk from the Tour Eiffel. The neighborhood is very pleasant and reasonably quiet, and there are plenty of restaurants within a short walk. Next week we are going to try a new hotel in the 6th.
To entertain ourselves, we go to museums, take long walks through all the sites and through neighborhoods, and have leisurely lunches (often a picnic in one of the many beautiful parks). So far we have been to the Musee D'Orsay, the Orangerie, the Marmottan Monet (in the 16th, highly recommended), the Dali in Montmartre (excellent explanations of the symbolism in English as well as French), and a new exhibit at the Luxembourg, Miro to Warhol.
We also go on the organized walking tours, “Paris Walks.” The 2 hour walking tours are really fun and interesting. So far we have done the Latin Quarter at the time of the revolution, and the history of the Marais. Next week we will do Montmartre, and later Paris Under the Occupation.
In the evening we go out to dinner. We also saw the new Woody Allen movie, in English with French subtitles, which was fun and a good mini French lesson at the same time.
Below is a sampling of pictures. If you can't see something clearly, you can click on it to enlarge.
We go into Paris once a week. Sometimes we go for the day, but usually we spend one night. We alternate between going in on the train and driving. The cost of the train is about the same as gas and parking for 2 days. The train is more relaxing, but it means I can’t bring as much stuff since I have to haul it on both the train and the metro, and then walk to the hotel.
We have been staying at a nice but modest small hotel in the 7th, a short walk from the Tour Eiffel. The neighborhood is very pleasant and reasonably quiet, and there are plenty of restaurants within a short walk. Next week we are going to try a new hotel in the 6th.
To entertain ourselves, we go to museums, take long walks through all the sites and through neighborhoods, and have leisurely lunches (often a picnic in one of the many beautiful parks). So far we have been to the Musee D'Orsay, the Orangerie, the Marmottan Monet (in the 16th, highly recommended), the Dali in Montmartre (excellent explanations of the symbolism in English as well as French), and a new exhibit at the Luxembourg, Miro to Warhol.
We also go on the organized walking tours, “Paris Walks.” The 2 hour walking tours are really fun and interesting. So far we have done the Latin Quarter at the time of the revolution, and the history of the Marais. Next week we will do Montmartre, and later Paris Under the Occupation.
In the evening we go out to dinner. We also saw the new Woody Allen movie, in English with French subtitles, which was fun and a good mini French lesson at the same time.
Below is a sampling of pictures. If you can't see something clearly, you can click on it to enlarge.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Bike Rides
A big part of what we do here is bike riding. We usually ride about 4 days per week. Most people would probably get sick of riding as much as we do, but fortunately it is something we both really enjoy. We see the beautiful countryside, discover new places, and get fresh air and exercise all at the same time. And, it justifies the good dinners we have in the evening.
Sometimes we ride from our house, sometimes we put the bikes on the back of our car so we can start from a more distant point and cover more area. We almost always pack a picnic lunch (tomatoes, cheese, baguette, apples, and a pain au chocolate) because we have found that most of the towns we ride through don’t have any places to buy anything, or that they are all closed during the long lunch hour.
Our rides range from a quick 12 mile loop to a maximum of about 40 miles. The area is hilly but nowhere as steep as the area around Orinda and the Bay Area generally. We ride through farmland and small villages, and stop frequently to look at ruins or check out a town. Most every small village is centered on a picturesque and often historic church, some going back to the 11th century. On the edge of the village is usually an impressive home and an adjacent farm and farm buildings, also made of stone, and all within a stone wall.
The area is also rich in WWI history, and to a lesser extent, WWII. We are about 2 hours from the Belgian border, so there are many war-related sites and memorials. Each small village, while having maybe only 50 inhabitants total, has a memorial dedicated to those lost in WWI showing as many as 20 names.
Below is a selection of pictures from various rides. You can click on any image for more detail. The pictures do not do the beauty of the area justice.
A big part of what we do here is bike riding. We usually ride about 4 days per week. Most people would probably get sick of riding as much as we do, but fortunately it is something we both really enjoy. We see the beautiful countryside, discover new places, and get fresh air and exercise all at the same time. And, it justifies the good dinners we have in the evening.
Sometimes we ride from our house, sometimes we put the bikes on the back of our car so we can start from a more distant point and cover more area. We almost always pack a picnic lunch (tomatoes, cheese, baguette, apples, and a pain au chocolate) because we have found that most of the towns we ride through don’t have any places to buy anything, or that they are all closed during the long lunch hour.
Our rides range from a quick 12 mile loop to a maximum of about 40 miles. The area is hilly but nowhere as steep as the area around Orinda and the Bay Area generally. We ride through farmland and small villages, and stop frequently to look at ruins or check out a town. Most every small village is centered on a picturesque and often historic church, some going back to the 11th century. On the edge of the village is usually an impressive home and an adjacent farm and farm buildings, also made of stone, and all within a stone wall.
The area is also rich in WWI history, and to a lesser extent, WWII. We are about 2 hours from the Belgian border, so there are many war-related sites and memorials. Each small village, while having maybe only 50 inhabitants total, has a memorial dedicated to those lost in WWI showing as many as 20 names.
Below is a selection of pictures from various rides. You can click on any image for more detail. The pictures do not do the beauty of the area justice.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)